Clothing accessories knowledge - weaving marks

As one of the clothing accessories, woven mark is also called trademark, woven mark. Woven Label in English.

1. There are mainly two kinds of selvage and selvage marks.

Selvedge label: when the required trademark is pointed out according to the demand for width, it is called selvedge trademark. This process avoids many disadvantages of trimming, but the output value is low. The same can be divided into flat/satin, which is characterized by soft and pretty feel. It is more suitable for the use of advanced clothing products, such as fashion, suits, etc., which are used most by Japanese manufacturers who pay attention to quality, and machines are also made in Japan. The selvage mark is generally used as the satin mark, but the satin background is difficult to express, and the hot pressing/dyeing process is often used to deal with this problem.

2. There are generally two kinds of selvage machines: wooden shuttle machine and crochet machine.

Wood shuttle machines (including Taiwan wood shuttle machines and Japan wood shuttle machines), feature: the trademark is a good one after being woven from the machine, so its edge is wrapped, and the weft yarn is of the same color from beginning to end, which is connected together and feels soft. Disadvantages: The production power is low, and the available colors are less than five.

The crochet machine, with the same quality, can weave all kinds of craft, and can even join transparent polyester yarn in the warp, which is called fish silk crochet machine. The characteristics are the same as the trademark of the wooden shuttle machine, but it is not a shuttle machine but a knitting machine, so the weft is tight and strong. It is mainly used as hot stamping color mark. It uses different characteristics of warp and weft to make the base plate color after high temperature transfer printing. This kind of trademark costs more. In addition to the width, total length of each color and process, the cost of cloth label also includes the type of yarn used. JB series yarn is commonly used internationally

Trimming cloth label: the machine used is the West German machine. As the name implies, on a special high-speed machine, it is woven like a piece of cloth, and then cut into strips according to the standard width. Because of the heat melting property of polyester, the yarns will stick together when cutting, and will not spread. For this reason, the appearance and feel will be affected to some extent. A good machine will be better, and the ultrasonic cutter will be better than the ordinary electric knife. Striped cloth label can be directly packed and sent to garment factory for processing; If the requirements are strict, it needs to be cut and folded. Because the maximum width of this machine is 20.8cm, that is to say, it can weave the mark of this width, and then it can process various shapes.

According to the classification of process, it can be divided into two categories: plane label and satin label.

3. Planar layout mark: the layout mark is like a cloth structure, which is formed by the crisscross of a simple warp and a weft. Generally speaking, warp yarns are fixed, or black, or white, so they can be divided into black, steep, white and flat. Light background colors are generally white and flat, and dark colors are generally black and flat. The image and color of the cloth label are mainly expressed by the weft, and the color expressed will be different from the function of warp interpenetration. Because general machines have restrictions on the types of weft yarn, the colors they can express are also limited, generally within 8 types. It can be seen from the above that the price components are: the width of the cloth label, that is, the amount of warp yarn used; The length of cloth label and the length of each color along the warp direction. In order to express details and colors more abundantly, double all weft yarns, which is called double side label. If a certain color sample needs more three-dimensional, add a heavy yarn, which is called heavy shuttle. In addition to washing and sizing, most of them use flat double-sided labels. Cloth labels are used to express images by yarns, which must be different from the original graphic design, so it is impossible to make large goods without small samples.

Satin cloth label: the cloth is made of interlaced warp and weft. In addition to improving the quality by doubling the weft, there is also doubling the warp. This process is called satin structure. By doubling the warp yarn, the texture of the cloth label becomes soft and smooth. Because the density of the double warp yarn is too high, the weft yarn cannot express the image well, and the bottom color cannot be made very flexibly. Certain color requirements can only be shown through subsequent processes. A machine is set to be flat or satin, which is generally relatively fixed. Generally, the width of cut edge satin shall not exceed 10.8cm, and that of selvedge shall not exceed 5.0cm.

Wps1.png Trimmed Weaving Mark

Wps2. png selvage woven mark